Cerro Torre 1970. Climbing permits are required in the National Park Office at the entrance of El Chalten. Der Cerro Torre in Patagonien ist ein einmaliger Berg, wild, haltlos steil, eher ein Kunstwerk denn einfach ein Gipfel. Maestri-Egger au Cerro Torre: la plus grande victoire de l’histoire de l’alpinisme En janvier 1959, Cesare Maestri est en effet de retour au Cerro Torre.
Photograph: Javier Etcheverry / Alamy/AlamyCerro Torre in Patagonia: Cesare Maestri was widely condemned after placing more than 400 bolts up the mountain's south-east ridge in 1970, with Reinhold Messner calling it the 'murder of the impossible'. Unfortunately the former coordinates were correct.
--Simpsons Comic Book Guy
Cesare Maestri, photographié par Leo Dickinson lors d'une interview en 1972 Mais Maestri n'avait eu besoin de personne pour se décrédibiliser. Cerro Torre. Einer der größten Alpinskandale spielte sich vor 55 Jahren am Cerro Torre ab und endete als die große tragische Lebenslüge des Cesare Maestri. After seeing a hundred plus artifacts in the first 1000 feet we were surprised to find nothing, zero, zip, nada in the remaining 1500 feet to the col. No rap anchors or fixed gear, absolutely nothing. “How could a man who claimed to have climbed Cerro Torre in such impeccable style in 1959 come back and bolt his way to the top.” There were also defenders of Maestri, especially in Italy. He stole [his] climb from the future. Durant l’été austral 1957-1958, Walter Bonatti et Carlo Mauri jettent l’éponge après seulement quelques centaines de mètres de grimpe.
Il tente l'ascension en juin 1970, en plein hiver austral, en compagnie de Carlo Claus, Ezio Alimonta et Pietro Vidi. A cette époque, il est considéré comme impossible par les plus grands. Cerro Torre 1959 Expedition. Cerro Torre deserves better. In 1959, Maestri, together with Cesarino Fava and Austrian guide Toni Egger [], travelled to Patagonia to attempt the north-east ridge of the unclimbed Cerro Torre.The three climbed up a steep corner below the Col of Conquest (between Cerro Torre and Torre Egger), then Fava turned back and Maestri and Egger headed for the summit. Maestri affirme avoir réalisé la première ascension du Cerro Torre, avec Toni Egger, le 31 janvier 1959.
He said they had reached the top, but Egger had been caught in an avalanche in the decent from the summit and buried.
Il vaincra le Cerro Torre. Patagonia’s Cerro Torre has been called the world’s most beautiful mountain. On his last attempt, in November 1980, he got to within 60 metres (200 ft) of the summit. After a lengthy introspection on the summit, we knew the act needed to be initiated by one party, without consensus.
Face à la controverse grandissante sur son ascension de 1959, Cesare Maestri décide de retourner au Cerro Torre et de le gravir par une nouvelle voie empruntant cette fois l'arête sud-est ; il choisit d'utiliser une perceuse et un compresseur pour poser ses pitons à expansion. La cordata si fermò qualche decina di metri al di sotto del punto culminante: un tratto che riserva ancora notevoli difficoltà.
There was a great deal of skepticism about the ascent. In a little over a decade Maestri, it may be argued, perpetrated the greatest hoax in the history of alpinism and also desecrated Cerro Torre with the Compressor Route.
"By chopping the vast majority of bolts (Kruk and Kennedy arrogated the right to determine a degree of purity) one deliberately wanted to eliminate a part of history, as if Maestri were a detestable and bloodthirsty dictator, and as if his route were a monument to him and not merely the traces of man's gruelling efforts up a mountain.
He recounted the first 1000 feet, which he undoubtedly did, as A view from Torre Egger (John Bragg in foreground) showing the hidden ledge system leading into the Col of Conquest. As one can check in Google Maps or Google Earth 49.29°S is the latitude of Cerro Torre. Some members of the climbing community disregard Maestri assertion of having reached the summit of the Torre in 1959 and consider as the first ascent the one performed by Italian climbers Casimiro Ferrari, Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti and Guissepe Negri on the west face on January 13, 1974 (Ragni Route, 1200m., VI, A2, WI 6, 95º). Le Cerro Torre.
He said Kruk and Kennedy's "militant and arrogant" actions were "the result of a unilateral decision and of a concept of mountaineering which lacks respect for those of the past. PATAGONIA, GENNAIO 1959. Many of the ranches and other lodgings close out of season making the trip much more expensive. This summit was supposedly first climbed in 1959 by the mountaineers Cesare Maestri and Toni Egger, but this climb has been the topic of debate for decades. Their actions triggered a bitter exchange of recriminations, not least between North American and Italian Alpinists, who lined up on either side of the debate.Hayden Kennedy, a 21-year-old American, and a Canadian, Jason Kruk, 24, were detained – albeit briefly – by Argentinian police in El Chaltén, where the removed bolts were confiscated.They were also accused of "Taliban-like" tactics in an article endorsed by leading Italian climbers, who said they had destroyed a piece of mountaineering history.Maestri first claimed to have climbed the mountain in 1959 with the Austrian guide Toni Egger, who died during the climb.